Southern/East African Trip 2019

Days 81  Our night at Pioneer Camp brought memories flying in.  However, it had obviously changed hands in the last 32 years and all the animal mounts in the bar had been taken down.  We met a really nice Zimbo who had picked up some German tourists for a tour in Zambia, and actually has a really good friend in Richards Bay!  What a small world. The campsite was good, electricity and wifi and decent ablutions.  We hit the sack early as we needed to go through the capital city in the morning and get to Mazabuko at a reasonable hour. Day 82  Rob and Sandy, who we had played many, many years of hockey with in Zululand, are on a sugar farm just outside Mazabuko.  We had made a commitment to see them in lieu of camping in Monze for a night.  What a great decision ... good company, fantastic food (our first roast lamb in three months!), a never ending supply of Mosi's, and a very comfortable bed.  We were loath to move on .....  Thanks once again Sandy and Rob for a fabulous sta

Days 75 - 80 - 21st - 27th August 2019 Peter and I reminisced about how we were meant to come to South Luangwa 25 years ago, but heavy floods during that December prevented us from doing so.  And here we were at last. We arrived at Wildlife Camp - a little piece of paradise right on the banks of the Luangwa River and just 6 km's from the Park gate.  It is situated in a game management area, so there is almost little need to go into the Park!  The whole setting is stunning and the facilities fantastic.  On the first day here, we decided that we would extend our stay by another three days. Sunset over the Luangwa River On the second day we did a self drive into the Park.  No predators were seen, but a fantastically huge herd of buffalo, loads of impala, puku, warthog, giraffe, elephant, kudu and waterbuck. Because Johan & Joanne would be leaving the next day, we decided to do a night drive together, followed by dinner, courtesy of Johan.  The night drive paid off, we

Day 74 - 20th August 2019 On route to Lilongwe from Cape Maclear we turned into the Mua Mission and Kungoni Museum.  The  Museum reveals the cultures of the three tribal groups (Chewa, Ngoni, Yao) which meet in the Mua area.   Father  Claude Boucher arrived in Mua when he was just 24 or 25 and has been there ever since - 52 years in fact,  and has played a huge part in putting the museum together.   There is a fantastic display of all the masks used in traditional folklore.  Well worth a visit if you are ever in the area! Mua Mission Our stay at Barefoot Camp was most pleasant.   People we had met at the Museum had come from Lilongwe and told us that Barefoot Camp served the best curry and rice in Malawi.   We were not disappointed! Our hosts, Louis and Rudolph and the chef, also South Africans, were great!   Highly recommended for a stay and curry! Day 75 - 21st August 2019 The next morning on route to the border, we were fascinated by the amount of firewood, ch

Day 72 & 73 - 18th &19th August 2019 Two glorious days were spent at Chembe Eagles' Nest at Cape Maclear.  Today we took a boat out to the Cape Maclear National Park, walked to the memorial of Dr Black, a young Scotsman missionary doctor who died of malaria at age 31.  Thereafter, we went to feed the fish eagles (that they have been doing for at least the past 30 years!) off Tunda Island which is also part of the national park, and to visit the island. Chembe village - racks for drying the fish that they catch Drat! He missed the fish - but at least we caught him! The fish were amazing! Tomorrow we are off to Barefoot Camp 20 km's from Lilongwe, on the Chipata road.  There had  been demonstrations in a number of the cities throughout Malawi over the recent elections, which the demonstrators maintain was not a fair election, but we have been told that the matter is currently in court.  Until such time as a court ruling is made, we have been tol

Day 66 & 67 – 12 th & 13 th August 2019 Blue Canoe Safari Camp was only an hour from the Tanzanian/Malawian border post.    These African border posts are incredibly slow – either their systems are slow, or they have no systems and everything is paper based!   It took us three hours to cross the border, but with the help of the insurance guys at the border.   The Malawi Road Toll fee was US$20, TIP $20 and 3 rd Party Insurance US$50.   But once we had been “cleared” to leave, the insurance guys demanded a US$25 “Agent’s Fee”.   At the end of the day, we thought that it would have taken us a heck of a longer time more if they didn’t help us, so we gladly paid the fee. We arrived at Chitimba Camp on Lake Malawi around lunchtime.   Camping was on lawn and really pleasant.   Because there was power we decided to stay for two nights, instead of pushing on to Lukwe Eco Lodge which was just 18km’s up the mountain but did not have electricity.   Johan & Joanne left

Day 65 – 11 th August 2019 Wow, this is like camping on the beach!   It was absolutely great to fall asleep to the sound of waves breaking.   Our hosts, Thomas and Layla, were great.   B ecause there is no electricity here, and with our charging system not working in the camper, we cut our stay to one night.   But it really was worth it! Beach camping at Blue Canoe Safari Camp Tomorrow we're off to Malawi.

Day 57 to 59 - 07th - 09th August 2019 What a piece of paradise!! Lake Side Lodge is owned and run by Chris and Louise ( ex South African's who have been in Tanzania for 21 years).  A more hospitable couple, together with their staff - particularly Pruve, Sabena, Noddy and Achmed - not forgetting the magnificent chefs and cleaning staff, we did not meet.  We had the most enjoyable time on the lake.  Our sunset cruise was also, of course, a winner! Us truly with Louise, Muffin and Chris The magnificent sunset Day 60 - 10th August 2019 We're back in Mbeya, at Utungele Coffee Lodge, and will be leaving for a relaxing 2 nights on the most Northern shore of Lake Malawi - still on the Tanzanian side of the border.  After that we shall be leaving for Livingstonia.

We arrived at Jacobsen’s Beach, Kigoma around 10h00 so could immediately make arrangements for a boat to Gombe National Park, where Jane Goodhall had done her research on the Chimpanzees. We were by this time a little fitter to do the hills, and enjoyed Gombe tremendously.  We didn't only get to spend an hour with the Chimps, but also hiked to the beautiful Wonder Waterfall in the park. What an old face this baby of a year has! The baby acting the goat :) Bored baby while adults are clutching out and grooming

D ay 53 & 54 - 30 th & 31 st July 2019 From Kirongo we drove south along the lake before heading east for Nyungwe Reserve National Park, Uwinka Campsite which would be our home for the next two nights.   Nyungwe Forest   is renown for hiking and birdlife.   My birding bucket-list on this holiday was to see the Great Blue Turaco and Nyungwe is just about the only place you find it. We were keen to do birding and a monkey trek, but our day turned out to be quite a disaster – instead of back-tracking toward the lake to Giyakuru for the monkey trek, we headed toward Kigali (which we understood was the direction to travel from the people who work at Uwinka).    Thank goodness we were on the road really early to catch the 08h00 tour, because we drove for 45 minutes in the wrong direction before turning back to Uwinka and then going another 30 minutes the other way!   At least we had a good cup of decent coffee at the Nyungwe Eco Lodge before turning back.    When we a

Day 49 – 27 th July 2019 Rubavu (previously Gisenyi) Immediately after our Gorilla Trek we left for Rubavu where we had planned to camp at Discover Rwanda Gisenyi Beach Hostel.   We inspected the campsite and ablutions upon arrival, and decided that we were definitely not staying there.   As it was a weekend, they had no rooms available and, over a beer, we decided that we would treat ourselves again to a hotel room.   Quite frankly, we were all exhausted - not only physically from the hike, but also mentally from the excitement leading up to and including the time spent with the gorillas. We chose the Peace View Hotel which apparently had the best view over Lake Kivu.   We absolutely collapsed laughing when we saw the number of steps we had to climb to the rooms and the restaurant on the very top floor!   A walk in the park though, compared to this morning’s trek 😊. What a great decision and good choice of hotel.   The rooms were excellent and the restaurant very g

Day 48 & 49 – 26 th & 27 th July 2019 We left Kigali for Volcanoes NP after breakfast and arrived at Kinigi Guest House just after lunch – a fabulous road all the way.   Because we’d have an early start the next morning, we decided to stay in rooms instead of camping.   Wow, three nights’ accommodation on the trot – we were really spoiling ourselves 😊. You can imagine the excitement in the morning - time to see the Gorillas!!!   The briefing at Volcanoes NP HQ took place at 07h00, however the entourage consisting of our group of four, two porters and our guide commenced the trek at 10h00.   They don’t call them Mountain Gorillas for nothing – a steep hike of around 5 km’s and although I had to stop to rest and get my breath several times, I was ably assisted by the porter on the very steep and rugged terrain.   During the return down the mountain we couldn’t believe that we had actually climbed all that way up, although it did take half the time going down than wha

We left Busisi around 08h15 and arrived in Benaco at 16h00.   It took us close on three hours to do the last 60 km’s due to the very badly potholed road.    Thank goodness we would only have another 18 km’s from Benaco to the Rusumo Border Post.   Unfortunately, this is the only way in and out of Rwanda from/to Tanzania, which means we have this rotten road to contend with on the way back. Unfortunately I cant show you haw bad the road is because the wifi link here is to weak to upload pictures. Our night in Benaco at the Starmax Motel was a truly “African” experience (Richard and Lynn – even more so than our stay at the “Lodge” in Kanga, Botswana!).   Amos, the Manager was extremely friendly.   The rooms were clean, but the en suite left a lot to be desired – French toilet, shower and basin the same cubicle.   The town was experiencing a power outage for the last three days already, so there was no water either.   Thank goodness we are totally self-sufficient in our c

Days 43 & 44 - 21st & 22nd July 2019 The South African couple that told us about Migombani also told us about Rocky Bay Resort and Campsite in Busisi, on the shores of Lake Victoria.  We had originally planned to stay at the Yacht Club in Mwanza, but decided to push through and take the ferry to Busisi and overnight at Rocky Bay. Joanne getting off the ferry - the vehicles are behind the buses Well, when we arrived, we were sold on this little piece of paradise!!  The campsite wasn't ready yet, so we got a great little chalet for $30 per night.   The owners are South African, so it's like being home from home 😊.  Last night we enjoyed a brilliantly cooked piece steak with chips and veg, and tonight the owners are making an oxtail 'potjie' which we have been invited to share (where are you Frans and Petro???) The rocks remind us of the Seychelles - huge and absolutely beautiful.  Just about everything, particularly the restaurant and swimming po

Days 37 to 42 - 15th to 20th July 2019 We passed a few Masaai villages on route to Serengeti.  The Serengeti proved to be everything we dreamed it would be - other than the VERY bad roads, cold showers and atrocious ablution blocks in the public campsites. Because we could only get 2 nights in Kogatende special campsite number 7 and the rest would be public campsites, we decided that we would have one night in Dik Dik , one night in Lobo and then push north to Kogatende which is on the Mara River, then back to Dik Dik for a night, before the last night at Ndabaka. Between the Gate and Dik Dik there were huge herds of Thompson's and Grant's Gazelle, the occasional elephant, some resident wildebeest and zebra, and quite a few lion. A highlight on our way north to Kogatende was a cheetah sat on an anthill, and just hundreds and thousands of wildebeest. We met the ranger at the Kogatende Air Strip - a very friendly guy.  We asked him where we find SCS 7.  He sai

Day 35 & 36 - 13th & 14th July 2019 We arrived at the crater at 12h00 so that we would have enough time to get from Simba Campsite in Ngorongoro to the Serengeti National Park on the morning that we leave.  Park fees are strictly for a 24 hour period, so if you are late to exit you need to pay for an additional day. Simba Campsite is on the rim of the crater, and for the first time since entering Tanzania temperatures dropped drastically! A pic taken from the crater rim It was freezing cold up on the rim and also during the descent into the crater the next morning.  Once we had reached the crater floor it warmed up nicely. The crater was teeming with wildlife. Spotting a Golden Jackal was also a first for us. We were extremely grateful that the men had arranged a game guide for the trip into the crater.  We would have got horribly lost, I'm sure, and would never have found the picnic spot for lunch.  The biggest advantage was that we could all take ph

From Tarangire we made our way to Manayara National Park via Mto Wa Mbo (meaning river of mosquitoes).  Because our washing had piled up, we decided to stay in Endabash public campsite in the park for only one night, and two outside of the park to get our clothes washed and dried. A beautiful lake with bird life in abundance - who would have thought that you'd capture spoon bills, pelicans and yellow billed storks in the same photograph?  There was also a large number of stilts and, in the distance, hundreds of flamingo's.  Just stunning. Manyara is supposed to be renown for its 'tree lions'.  We did see lion, but like most, fast asleep on the ground.  Other than lion, we spotted a beautiful pair of Klipspringers and some Impala. There was also a large number of butterflies throughout the park which took my fancy 😃. That evening at Endabash we met a game guide who was taking a young German couple around, who said that we should have rather entered the pa

Day 30 & 31 – 8 th & 9 th Jully 2019 The trip from Arusha to Tarangire was absolutely facinating.  Being Masaai territory, you expected only to see the Masaai tending their herds.  But our journey co-incided with a special cattle market in the Mgagau area.  It is here where people come and buy and sell cattle, goats and sheep for either for butcheries, milking and farming. Mgagau Cattle Market  And, of course, some Masaai are too lazy to walk their goat to the market! A Masaai taking his goat to market Tarangire National Park thus far has been the best National Park we have ever visited.   Not a large variety of game, but massive herds of zebra, buffalo, elephant and giraffe.   Also, huge prides of lion. Upon arrival at the gate, the large number of tour operated vehicles was overwhelming.  This is possibly forerunner of what we can expect in the Serengeti earlier next week. Tour Operator's vehicles for Tarangire We wanted special camps