Southern/East African Trip 2019

Days 75 - 80 - 21st - 27th August 2019 Peter and I reminisced about how we were meant to come to South Luangwa 25 years ago, but heavy floods during that December prevented us from doing so.  And here we were at last. We arrived at Wildlife Camp - a little piece of paradise right on the banks of the Luangwa River and just 6 km's from the Park gate.  It is situated in a game management area, so there is almost little need to go into the Park!  The whole setting is stunning and the facilities fantastic.  On the first day here, we decided that we would extend our stay by another three days. Sunset over the Luangwa River On the second day we did a self drive into the Park.  No predators were seen, but a fantastically huge herd of buffalo, loads of impala, puku, warthog, giraffe, elephant, kudu and waterbuck. Because Johan & Joanne would be leaving the next day, we decided to do a night drive together, followed by dinner, courtesy of Johan.  The night drive paid off, we

Day 74 - 20th August 2019 On route to Lilongwe from Cape Maclear we turned into the Mua Mission and Kungoni Museum.  The  Museum reveals the cultures of the three tribal groups (Chewa, Ngoni, Yao) which meet in the Mua area.   Father  Claude Boucher arrived in Mua when he was just 24 or 25 and has been there ever since - 52 years in fact,  and has played a huge part in putting the museum together.   There is a fantastic display of all the masks used in traditional folklore.  Well worth a visit if you are ever in the area! Mua Mission Our stay at Barefoot Camp was most pleasant.   People we had met at the Museum had come from Lilongwe and told us that Barefoot Camp served the best curry and rice in Malawi.   We were not disappointed! Our hosts, Louis and Rudolph and the chef, also South Africans, were great!   Highly recommended for a stay and curry! Day 75 - 21st August 2019 The next morning on route to the border, we were fascinated by the amount of firewood, ch

Day 72 & 73 - 18th &19th August 2019 Two glorious days were spent at Chembe Eagles' Nest at Cape Maclear.  Today we took a boat out to the Cape Maclear National Park, walked to the memorial of Dr Black, a young Scotsman missionary doctor who died of malaria at age 31.  Thereafter, we went to feed the fish eagles (that they have been doing for at least the past 30 years!) off Tunda Island which is also part of the national park, and to visit the island. Chembe village - racks for drying the fish that they catch Drat! He missed the fish - but at least we caught him! The fish were amazing! Tomorrow we are off to Barefoot Camp 20 km's from Lilongwe, on the Chipata road.  There had  been demonstrations in a number of the cities throughout Malawi over the recent elections, which the demonstrators maintain was not a fair election, but we have been told that the matter is currently in court.  Until such time as a court ruling is made, we have been tol

Day 66 & 67 – 12 th & 13 th August 2019 Blue Canoe Safari Camp was only an hour from the Tanzanian/Malawian border post.    These African border posts are incredibly slow – either their systems are slow, or they have no systems and everything is paper based!   It took us three hours to cross the border, but with the help of the insurance guys at the border.   The Malawi Road Toll fee was US$20, TIP $20 and 3 rd Party Insurance US$50.   But once we had been “cleared” to leave, the insurance guys demanded a US$25 “Agent’s Fee”.   At the end of the day, we thought that it would have taken us a heck of a longer time more if they didn’t help us, so we gladly paid the fee. We arrived at Chitimba Camp on Lake Malawi around lunchtime.   Camping was on lawn and really pleasant.   Because there was power we decided to stay for two nights, instead of pushing on to Lukwe Eco Lodge which was just 18km’s up the mountain but did not have electricity.   Johan & Joanne left

Day 65 – 11 th August 2019 Wow, this is like camping on the beach!   It was absolutely great to fall asleep to the sound of waves breaking.   Our hosts, Thomas and Layla, were great.   B ecause there is no electricity here, and with our charging system not working in the camper, we cut our stay to one night.   But it really was worth it! Beach camping at Blue Canoe Safari Camp Tomorrow we're off to Malawi.

Day 57 to 59 - 07th - 09th August 2019 What a piece of paradise!! Lake Side Lodge is owned and run by Chris and Louise ( ex South African's who have been in Tanzania for 21 years).  A more hospitable couple, together with their staff - particularly Pruve, Sabena, Noddy and Achmed - not forgetting the magnificent chefs and cleaning staff, we did not meet.  We had the most enjoyable time on the lake.  Our sunset cruise was also, of course, a winner! Us truly with Louise, Muffin and Chris The magnificent sunset Day 60 - 10th August 2019 We're back in Mbeya, at Utungele Coffee Lodge, and will be leaving for a relaxing 2 nights on the most Northern shore of Lake Malawi - still on the Tanzanian side of the border.  After that we shall be leaving for Livingstonia.

We arrived at Jacobsen’s Beach, Kigoma around 10h00 so could immediately make arrangements for a boat to Gombe National Park, where Jane Goodhall had done her research on the Chimpanzees. We were by this time a little fitter to do the hills, and enjoyed Gombe tremendously.  We didn't only get to spend an hour with the Chimps, but also hiked to the beautiful Wonder Waterfall in the park. What an old face this baby of a year has! The baby acting the goat :) Bored baby while adults are clutching out and grooming

D ay 53 & 54 - 30 th & 31 st July 2019 From Kirongo we drove south along the lake before heading east for Nyungwe Reserve National Park, Uwinka Campsite which would be our home for the next two nights.   Nyungwe Forest   is renown for hiking and birdlife.   My birding bucket-list on this holiday was to see the Great Blue Turaco and Nyungwe is just about the only place you find it. We were keen to do birding and a monkey trek, but our day turned out to be quite a disaster – instead of back-tracking toward the lake to Giyakuru for the monkey trek, we headed toward Kigali (which we understood was the direction to travel from the people who work at Uwinka).    Thank goodness we were on the road really early to catch the 08h00 tour, because we drove for 45 minutes in the wrong direction before turning back to Uwinka and then going another 30 minutes the other way!   At least we had a good cup of decent coffee at the Nyungwe Eco Lodge before turning back.    When we a

Day 49 – 27 th July 2019 Rubavu (previously Gisenyi) Immediately after our Gorilla Trek we left for Rubavu where we had planned to camp at Discover Rwanda Gisenyi Beach Hostel.   We inspected the campsite and ablutions upon arrival, and decided that we were definitely not staying there.   As it was a weekend, they had no rooms available and, over a beer, we decided that we would treat ourselves again to a hotel room.   Quite frankly, we were all exhausted - not only physically from the hike, but also mentally from the excitement leading up to and including the time spent with the gorillas. We chose the Peace View Hotel which apparently had the best view over Lake Kivu.   We absolutely collapsed laughing when we saw the number of steps we had to climb to the rooms and the restaurant on the very top floor!   A walk in the park though, compared to this morning’s trek 😊. What a great decision and good choice of hotel.   The rooms were excellent and the restaurant very g

Day 48 & 49 – 26 th & 27 th July 2019 We left Kigali for Volcanoes NP after breakfast and arrived at Kinigi Guest House just after lunch – a fabulous road all the way.   Because we’d have an early start the next morning, we decided to stay in rooms instead of camping.   Wow, three nights’ accommodation on the trot – we were really spoiling ourselves 😊. You can imagine the excitement in the morning - time to see the Gorillas!!!   The briefing at Volcanoes NP HQ took place at 07h00, however the entourage consisting of our group of four, two porters and our guide commenced the trek at 10h00.   They don’t call them Mountain Gorillas for nothing – a steep hike of around 5 km’s and although I had to stop to rest and get my breath several times, I was ably assisted by the porter on the very steep and rugged terrain.   During the return down the mountain we couldn’t believe that we had actually climbed all that way up, although it did take half the time going down than wha

We left Busisi around 08h15 and arrived in Benaco at 16h00.   It took us close on three hours to do the last 60 km’s due to the very badly potholed road.    Thank goodness we would only have another 18 km’s from Benaco to the Rusumo Border Post.   Unfortunately, this is the only way in and out of Rwanda from/to Tanzania, which means we have this rotten road to contend with on the way back. Unfortunately I cant show you haw bad the road is because the wifi link here is to weak to upload pictures. Our night in Benaco at the Starmax Motel was a truly “African” experience (Richard and Lynn – even more so than our stay at the “Lodge” in Kanga, Botswana!).   Amos, the Manager was extremely friendly.   The rooms were clean, but the en suite left a lot to be desired – French toilet, shower and basin the same cubicle.   The town was experiencing a power outage for the last three days already, so there was no water either.   Thank goodness we are totally self-sufficient in our c